Posts made by ScottS

Usually shipping to China isn't cost effective for us in Canada.

I think you have answered my questions. There is no video to disassemble it. If I ever receive another broken unit, I'll contact you to see how you want to handle it.

The right button on one of my M5s was shifted so only 1/2 the button was showing. I couldn't move it into place because some tape or glue was holding it. I should have contacted M5Stack at this point, but I didn't want to wait for a reply on this forum and I thought it would be easy to take the two screws off the back and re-seat the buttons.

I lifted the speaker out, then I thought I could push the board to the side to get it to lift out over the plastic notch. I ended up ripping the ribbon off the solder pads :( I had probably weakened the ribbon by lifting the board up several times trying to get the buttons in place without removing the board out completely.

Has anyone seen any instructions on how to remove the main board? I totally failed here :( I'm guessing there's a trick to pull the board over to one side so the board clears the notch, then lift it straight up. I thought I had it by removing the speaker first, but maybe by that time I had weakened the ribbon too much.

@m5stack

You might be missing the point of my post. I did see your solution on the other thread. The reason why I'm avoiding your solution is that it requires some detailed SMT soldering. Many people don't have the ability, equipment, or components to do SMT rework. I do have an air rework station, but I still avoid doing SMT rework whenever I can.

I'm still using my original solution (plugging a 0.1uF non polarized ceramic capacitor in the connector between RST and BAT) and it's worked perfectly for me. Do you see any problem with what I am doing? You just posted some pictures without text so I don't really know what your point is.

Make sure you use a non polarized capacitor like the orange one shown in the left picture. If you use a polarized capacitor instead, you might get it backwards. If you hook up an electrolytic capacitor backwards, the electrodes oxidize and it starts to conduct current. Throw away any polarized capacitor that you hook up backwards.

You can also use RST and BAT since it's easier (IMO). http://forum.m5stack.com/topic/113/an-even-simpler-fix-when-upload-fails

I heard the new M5's don't need the cap but I'm waiting for a new one to arrive to confirm.

If you are having trouble uploading your firmware, a low value non polarized capacitor on the RST line might help. I used a 0.068 uF ceramic cap because it was close by, but 0.1 uF is more standard and might be easier to find.

If you connect one side to RST, the other can be connected to BAT, 3.3V, or GND.

You can't go wrong if you use a non polarized capacitor like shown here, but be super careful if you use a polarized capacitor. The polarity of the capacitor is opposite if you use RST/GND vs (RST/3.3 or RST/BAT). You can ruin the capacitor if you get it backwards. Polarized caps get damaged and become conductive if they are reversed. If you reverse one, best to throw it away.

It doesn't seem intuitive to connect it to BAT or 3.3 instead of GND, but it basically does the same thing. The reason why I like BAT is because it's close to RST on the connector. I just plug it in, like a jumper whenever I need to program.